Shell Greases specified in workshop manual - list of modern Shell equivalents

[yellowfever]

Having finally got a garage I was looking to get the relevant greases to hand for working on my S2R 1000.

The workshop manual (WSM A2-page 6) lists various (mostly Shell) greases for different servicing tasks, but googling soon makes clear the various grease names given in the manual are obsolete.

Cue some research of what to get and in case useful to anyone else, here’s my findings.

Short version, this what I got:

1. SHELL GADUS S2 V100 2 [GREASE A]
2. SHELL GADUS S2 V220AD 2 [GREASE B]*
3. SHELL GADUS S3 V220C 2 [GREASE C]
4. SHELL GADUS S2 V220AC 2 [GREASE D]*

*The last number (“2”) relates to consistency of the grease and there can be different consistency options for the same grease. For the greases with “*” ( B and D) I could not find info on what consistency to get so went with “2” as was specified for grease A and C.

Longer version

What WSM says and what current equivalent is:

Grease A SHELL Alvania R3 Multipurpose, medium fibre, lithium grease. [NOW OBSOLETE RECOMMENDED REPLACEMENT IS SHELL GADUS S2 V100 2]

Grease B SHELL Retinax HDX2 Molybdenum disulphide grease, high mechanical stress and high temperature resistant. NOW OBSOLETE RECOMMENDED REPLACEMENT IS SHELL GADUS S2 V220AD] MAYBE CASTROL MS Can be used?

Grease C SHELL Retinax LX2 Bearing/joint grease for parts subject to prolonged mechanical stress. Temperature range: -10 to 110°C. [NOW OBSOLETE RECOMMENDED REPLACEMENT IS SHELL GADUS S3 V220C 2]

Grease D SHELL Retinax HD2 Protective grease, with anti-corrosive and waterproofing properties [NOW OBSOLETE RECOMMENDED REPLACEMENT IS SHELL GADUS S2 V220AC]

Not got these yet as no immediate need:

Grease E PANKL - PLB 05 [STILL EXISTS I THINK]

Grease F OPTIMOL PASTE WHITE T. [THIS IS A HIGH PERFORMANCE WHITE ASSEMBLY PASTE. CASTROL VERSION CHANGED NAME FROM THIS TO “Molub-Alloy Paste White T”]

https://thelubricantoracle.castrol.com/product/optimol-paste-white-t/industrial/en-FR

Some source info:

Equivalents tables

https://www.unimarine-lubricants.com//tools.html

Shell list

http://www.gannonoils.co.uk/images/stories/Shell_Products.pdf

Shell gadus

https://mackenzieoil.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/Gadus-Greases-1.pdf

https://thelubricantoracle.castrol.com/product/optimol-paste-white-t/industrial/en-FR

[Kato]

Alternativly you could have purchased a single pot of any of the following

ZX1 Extralube
Silkolene Pro RG2
FUCHS Titan WB
RedLine CV 2

And used it for everything

[yellowfever]

Well now you tell me! certainly a buy one pot of grease and done is simpler/cheaper.

But grease is not that expensive and lasts a long time, so personally I’d rather get and use the greases as per Ducati WSM specifications, rather than take a one size fits all approach.

Anyway, thanks for the tips. Between us I think this post now caters for grease seekers of all persuasions from relaxed to obsessive

[Mr Gazza]

I'm nearly a one pot man. First choice being Molybdenum Disulphide grease for virtually everything especially threads, what with using a lot of Titanium fasteners..
Exception being Copperslip on spark plug threads.
I use red rubber grease on brake master and slave seals and some O-rings, such as the one round the tank cap assy.
I use specialist high lanolin chain lube on the chain, but thinking of changing to a light oil for this. I've heard that Scott-oiler oil brushed on lightly is quite good, but can't be arsed with an actual Scott-oiler.

Finally, and not really a grease, I use Grate polish on the clutch drum slots, but polish as much as possible off before re-installing the plates. This coats the slots with Graphite and is better that actual Graphite grease as it doesn't leave a greasy residue and has much more Graphite.

[yellowfever]

Ah a type “B” grease man

That was all I was using too (an old pot of Castrol grease I have nearly finished over many years), until I recently decided to get perfectionist and get all the A,B,C,D options…

I also have an old tub of red rubber grease but never really found a use for it. The new brake seals came with Brembo’s own assembly concoction in a dinky sachet so my one possible use is no more. But maybe I’ll take a leaf out of your book and use some on O rings and seals here and there. As my bike’s now 18 years old rubber and silicone bits are getting tired in places so some TLC can’t hurt…

[yellowfever]

On scottoiler I’ve used one on both my bikes for years and I do seem to get very good mileage from chains and sprockets and rarely need to adjust them either. A boon in the many years I had no garage and even more so with a bike with no centre stand.

They are a faff to install especially on the S2R (in the end I did my own custom design to get a dual injector on my single sided S2R). But when done they are reasonably unobtrusive (I put the reservoir under the triangular LH side pod). And after that it’s just a case of checking and filling the reservoir now and again (and accepting a certain amount of oiliness - probably not a good option for folk who like white wheels)

So it works for me and seems a better bet than regular chain maintenance using sticky lube that can create a grinding paste when road crap sticks to it….

[Mr Gazza]

Yes I'm a big fan of those Brembo sachets. Definitely has to be good stuff if Brembo supplies it with their seal kits. I carefully cut a small corner off the packet and then re-seal with tape to keep them going for a long time.
I often wonder if the grease is available separately but have never got round to looking for it.

Mm. That's what puts me off fitting a Scott-oiler, the mess on the wheel and all the rest, especially under the frame grab handles, which is where I always pick pick up the black spots on my hands with the spray lube!

I've got an idea in my head for using one of those funny three sided chain cleaning brushes adapted to apply oil from a squeezy bottle. It'll probably stay in my head!

I highly recommend a centre stand, but an ST stand is not a straight bolt on jobbie to a Monster and not sure if a single sider would present it's own little quirks? Probably easier to get the assistor arm out of the way though?

[yellowfever]

Yeah centre stand has long been on my list of mods (I got the official Ducati option one for my M600 back in the day - even more essential given the spring loaded suicide side stand that model had).

I got as far as narrowing down possible candidates as a best starting point for modification to an ST4 stand. But not got a second hand one yet to see what changes would be needed and whether it’s truly viable as an option. Shorter legs and adaptions to the assist arm seem likely to be needed, at the very least… so likely will remain a longer term project

[Mr Gazza]

I found that I had to grind a big scoop out of the cross brace on mine for an M900Sie (hoop model).
The clearance from the rear tyre was a bit close for my liking and it could have touched if the wheel was adjusted fully forwards.
Not sure if the single sider is a little longer than mine? If so you would get away without the scoop.
I ended up making a new assistor arm to get in snug under the silencer, but you wouldn't have that problem with the S2R and could easily bend the arm up if you wanted more ground clearance.
It could be the pipes on the LH side that might get in the way though? Plenty of room on that side on mine when I did away with the floating brake torque arm and brackets.

[yellowfever]

Yeah I think the tricky part will most likely be the exhaust pipe on the RHS as you say. Not so urgent as I have a stand and garage these days, but I’d still like to fit one one day if I can make it work…