Rolling refresh - electrical stuff

yellowfever · Today, 04:09 PM

As further light relief during timing oil seal work, I did a bit more refining of this healtech install. I custom shortened all the cables to and from it taking the opportunity to put protective sheathing over the wires and re-crimping ends with either heat shrink terminals or ones that fit into the healtech quick connect bus (rather than just using bare wires as they suggest).

I also installed a small switch so I can easily operate the healtech either in auto mode or ignition triggered. The latter mode can be useful for battery charging or for instance if I want to make the voltmeter live before starting engine.

It was all pretty tight and fiddly, so it took quite a while. But I am very happy with the outcome, it’s neat and the switch is nicely hidden/protected from weather but still easily accessible under the edge of the tank next to the fuse box.

I also briefly tested everything and healtech auto mode seems to work fine - it keeps everything powered off until it senses the engine has been started and is ticking over in steady rhythm with steady charge from alternator. It stays live for a few seconds after shutdown before auto shutting off. In ignition triggered mode it comes on (again with a few seconds delay) once ignition turned on, so eg I can read voltmeter without starting engine if I want to. And again it shuts off with a few seconds delay once the ignition is turned off.

I’ve got to install one final accessory into the healtech, the dedicated Keiss heated vest lead. Comes with a nice waterproof but egregiously large fuse holder and rather long wires, so some surgery will be required once I figure out routing/where I can fit the fuse (or whether to swap to another smaller fuse holder).

I also sorted cleaning and checking and repairing wiring and connections as I came across them for this or for the oil seal change. I found a split wire sheath showing bare wire on the oil pressure sensor. Tricky location but I managed to sort it fairly neatly with two coats of some liquid electrical ‘tape’ and then glue lined heat shrink. 95% of the time was spent wrestling the heatshrink over the rubber boot which couldn’t be removed without butchering the loom. And most of the rest of the time was disassembling the superseal connector.

I also found a damaged outer sheath on another wire in that area, but this was easier to get glue lined heat shrink to, so an easy fix.

So far connectors seem in great shape for an 18 year old naked bike. A testament to superseal quality connectors. I’m sure some of the other types of connectors will be doing less well, but I’m going to go over them a bit at a time as and when.

Today, 04:09 PM	#1
yellowfever Bronze Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: London Bike: S2r 1000 Posts: 229	As further light relief during timing oil seal work, I did a bit more refining of this healtech install. I custom shortened all the cables to and from it taking the opportunity to put protective sheathing over the wires and re-crimping ends with either heat shrink terminals or ones that fit into the healtech quick connect bus (rather than just using bare wires as they suggest). I also installed a small switch so I can easily operate the healtech either in auto mode or ignition triggered. The latter mode can be useful for battery charging or for instance if I want to make the voltmeter live before starting engine. It was all pretty tight and fiddly, so it took quite a while. But I am very happy with the outcome, it’s neat and the switch is nicely hidden/protected from weather but still easily accessible under the edge of the tank next to the fuse box. I also briefly tested everything and healtech auto mode seems to work fine - it keeps everything powered off until it senses the engine has been started and is ticking over in steady rhythm with steady charge from alternator. It stays live for a few seconds after shutdown before auto shutting off. In ignition triggered mode it comes on (again with a few seconds delay) once ignition turned on, so eg I can read voltmeter without starting engine if I want to. And again it shuts off with a few seconds delay once the ignition is turned off. I’ve got to install one final accessory into the healtech, the dedicated Keiss heated vest lead. Comes with a nice waterproof but egregiously large fuse holder and rather long wires, so some surgery will be required once I figure out routing/where I can fit the fuse (or whether to swap to another smaller fuse holder). I also sorted cleaning and checking and repairing wiring and connections as I came across them for this or for the oil seal change. I found a split wire sheath showing bare wire on the oil pressure sensor. Tricky location but I managed to sort it fairly neatly with two coats of some liquid electrical ‘tape’ and then glue lined heat shrink. 95% of the time was spent wrestling the heatshrink over the rubber boot which couldn’t be removed without butchering the loom. And most of the rest of the time was disassembling the superseal connector. I also found a damaged outer sheath on another wire in that area, but this was easier to get glue lined heat shrink to, so an easy fix. So far connectors seem in great shape for an 18 year old naked bike. A testament to superseal quality connectors. I’m sure some of the other types of connectors will be doing less well, but I’m going to go over them a bit at a time as and when.