Had one of those days in the garage today when you are busy all day but do not achieve very much, first I took the clutch cover off as I need to get the inner case off to get to the kick starter spring.
The clutch is dry and has no visible means of cooling it, the fins toward the front of the engine on this casing are blind and for styling /strength purposes only. The inner case containing the kick starter spring must be wet which means there must be an oil seal inboard of the electronic ignition trigger. which means that all the electronic ignition will have to come out, the fixed magnets and the stator on the shaft. If I believe the MRC club magazine, Moto Morini was the first product6ion motorcycle to have electronic ignition
In the absence of a manual (on order) I am reluctant to disturb the ignition and the timing (it is almost inevitable that the engine will get turned over whilst fitting and testing the new kick starter spring (not yet obtained)). In any event, the clutch spring retaining nuts were rusted solid and would not budge. I could have ground up a piece of steel plate to make a tool to remove them but decided that it was easier to buy a Triumph/BSA/ Matchless/Ariel tool of Ebay for <£9.
I did manage to get the oil filter out and cleaned up, it is a cylindrical plastic mesh screen much the same as a Monster but the Morini filtration system is just that without the replaceable filter cartridge.
I then spent half an hour looking for a rear brake torque arm retaining bolt - 7mm which is probably nestling in plain sight in the box of removed 6mm bolts. In the end, I turned down an 8mm SS socket cap screw to 7mm for the shank part and again to 6mm which was threaded for a retaining nut.
I then thought I would go for the final assembly of the front end, with a 2LS front brake I always liked to ensure the brake was applied and both sets of shoes were firmly in contact with the drum before tightening the wheel spindle and doing the lower fork clamps up. A small problem was encountered with the forks at either end of the link rod between the two cast aluminium brake actuator arms, I could move the cable operated arm about 6mm before the link operated arm even moved. The holes in the aluminium arms are a snug fit on the clevis pin but the forks at either end are where all the play is. Strange that these have worn before the aluminium. Options here are 1. look around for some replacements, 2 weld the holes and re-drill them, 3 make new altogether or 4 leave them as is and see if I can adjust them so the play is "out of play"
