It's been quite a hectic couple of weeks with work and I've been too knackered in the evenings to get into the shed!
However I managed to round up all the bits and pieces to make the forks and brakes all fit together. Correct wheel spacer for the axle, a washer to go beneath the spindle nut, Ti caliper bolts, 4.5mm disc spacers and a speedo cable for an XS650 that will fit the bill.
Today I dry assembled everything to have a proper look at it all.
Getting the disc bolts out proved harder than I thought it ought to be! The steel button heads I used don't have a very deep Allen socket, so I went for grinding paste in the socket from the start. Even so I only got two out and chewed the heads out of the rest.
I got them out by grinding slots in the heads and using an impact screwdriver on them.
Meanwhile Dacs phoned and asked why I wasn't using any heat, I complained that I didn't really have anything that had a small enough flame, to which he suggested boiling water.
This is like getting your own advice back, and I didn't think it would be hot enough, but it's silly not to try. Needless to say the bolts on the other side all came out after a dousing of boiling water with not one head wrung out. Thanks for the nudge Dacs.
The disc spacers fit perfectly, but the new Ti standard length disc bolts are left wanting, they could do with being 20mm instead of 15, but this will do for a trail fit.
I thought I would just offer the speedo drive into the wheel before I attempted to put it in the forks and this revealed a problem. The gearbox won't sit in the wheel properly with the disc bolts in. I had to take two out to get the gearbox to seat properly and obviously the wheel would not turn with the the others in place, so I'm afraid that somewhat kills the project, as I'm not changing the speedo or messing about with hall sensors and extra cabling.
I still carried on with the dry fit without the speedo drive to make sure everything else was good, which it is, and it looks good too.
The adjusters look good. The forks are set flush just as a simple means of getting them level, they would normally protrude above the yoke by about 20mm.
7.5mm spacer is perfect on the right side.
It will need the larger spacer on the left side to make it fit a bike without a speedo drive now, as I'll be moving this whole set up on to a post 2002 Monster owner.
The washer under the nice ally sleeve nut does the business.
So with the exception of the left hand axle spacer, I have all the parts to change the entire front end.
Hybrid Monster/1098 forks with new seals and oil (Goes straight into Monster yokes.)
Front axle with spacer, nut and washer. (Needs the LH spacer.)
Precision alloy disc spacers @4.5mm
Pair of Brembo radial callipers, with new piston seals and half seals about 3000 miles ago.
Stainless pinch bolts.
Banjo bolts with bleed nipples.
Pad pins and clips present with spares.
Set of 8 new EBC 4HH sintered pads (one for each piston) (+ a pair of matching new rear pads if required)
Titanium caliper bolts.
Add the spacer and 4 copper washers for the banjos and this is plug and play for a Monster with an electronic speedo.
Price upon application.
P.S. Standard Monster front mudguard goes straight on, no mods. I just thought, you'll need 12 @ M8 x 20 disc bolts too!