I have a 24v cordless Clarke model that I got from Machine Mart. It was about £80 during one of their VAT-free promotions but unfortunately is no longer available. It's rated at 220Nm and makes short work of the rear wheel nut (176Nm).
The nearest equivalents at Machine Mart now are this 18v 220Nm cordless at £80 (PLUS battery & charger though)
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/kiel...rushless-impa/
or this corded 450Nm model at £72.
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clar...impact-wrench/
You should only use chrome molybdenum sockets (the black ones) with an impact driver as the regular chrome vanadium ones can shatter under the repeated impacts of the driver.
The other benefit of using an impact wrench is that you don't need to lock the wheel to undo the nut like you would with a breaker bar; you just steady it with your hand while the wrench does the work. The torque is transferred directly to the wheel nut and doesn't really try to spin the wheel.
It's important to ensure the wheel nut is fully torqued-up when it's replaced. If you don't have a suitable torque wrench, make adjacent punch marks on the nut and the edge of the spindle. Then, when you replace the nut, just align the two marks.
That assumes that the nut was torqued-up correctly before you undid it, of course. For peace of mind, after the first time you remove the wheel, I'd recommend you use a torque wrench (your friendly dealer?) to check the tightness.
Finally, make sure you lube the threads and the base of the nut with molybdenum grease, otherwise the torque reading will be wrong.