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MrsC_772 · 07-07-2016, 08:42 PM

Day 13 - Thursday 7 July

After breakfast I checked out of Alp Penzion. The hotel manageress had relented and told me that I would not be charged the €5 per day for aircon after all, but the threat of the charge and the Juice Business detracted from what could potentially have been a very nice hotel.

The Slovenian/Austrian border was the first since leaving England where someone manned the crossing - 2 Austrian soldiers. They waved me straight through, without bothering to check my papers (unlike the car in front). The likelihood of my smuggling in terrorists, Syrian refugees etc. in my Kriega tailpacks was minimal!

Having used up the last of my mini chain lube, I spotted a Triumph dealer just outside Villach, and thought they might sell me more. They did, after much faffing around (although being Austria, it should probably be spelled Pfaffing around, especially after previously driving past a town called Pfafflar!) to find the price in various catalogues/computer records. I was even offered a coffee and they let me use their loo. Not bad, considering I wasn't on a Triumph. Maybe Bill Bryson was wrong (after a less than happy trip many years ago, he remarked that Austria would be nice if it were not for the Austrians).

Around noon I arrived in Bad Kleinkirchheim, a town name I associate with watching Ski Sunday with my Dad when I was a kid. I reckoned it was strudel o'clock, so parked up in front of a bakery and ordered an apfelstrudel and cappuccino. Tasty filling - still trying to pin down the spice blend, more than just cinnamon & lemon, I'm sure. Sat at the next table was an Austrian straight from central casting: old guy in lederhosen, green wool cloth waistcoat and Tyrolean hat (no feather but an edelweiss pin). Tourist board employee or Englishman trying too hard to fit in?

Next Brownie point for Austria was the Nockalmstrasse - a toll road through the mountains designed to be fun to ride. 52 individually number bends, perfect tarmac, helpful camber to allow for a relaxed ride. Meadows with wild flowers including lupins, grazing cows (only 1 actually stood in the road), all very pleasant. OK it was €10.50, but more fun than €10.50 worth of Italian motorway riding.

After stopping at a supermarket for an iced coffee drink and punnet of blueberries (more vitamin karma), I filled up with fuel. Another pleasant surprise - price per litre cheaper than Luxembourg!

Finally, I headed towards the Grossglocknerhochlapinestrasse, and my hotel in Heiligenblut. I will not write off the Austrian inkeeping profession after all. Today's dirndl clad blonde asked me to complete my address on the check in form which already had my Name printed, and gave me the key to my room, which has a balcony with a splendid mountain view. While I could happily have sat staring at the view, I fancied a relaxing swim.

Once again, my lack of German frustrated me (all the info in the folder or on notices in the room is in German alone). I checked with the receptionist that my understanding was correct (that the apricot coloured towels in the wardrobe are for use in the swimming pool and spa and should be left down there). Lovely indoor pool, with huge windows looking out onto a view almost as good as that from my balcony. 50 lazy breaststroke lengths (the odd numbered ones with views of darting swifts, housemartins and the mountains, even numbered ones with just the stone carving of alpine activities on the wall). Swim was followed by sauna (again, spotlessly clean with a bizarre array of alternative showers). Only on leaving did I spot the sign saying that swimsuits were not allowed in the sauna!

Dinner was spinach and cheese dumplings, another bland Austrian beer (the Austrians should leave brewing to the Germans if you ask me) and ice cream (not up to Maniago standards), with, you've guesed, more mountain views!

07-07-2016, 08:42 PM	#22
MrsC_772 Silver Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Farnborough Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 712	Austria gets back into my good books Day 13 - Thursday 7 July After breakfast I checked out of Alp Penzion. The hotel manageress had relented and told me that I would not be charged the €5 per day for aircon after all, but the threat of the charge and the Juice Business detracted from what could potentially have been a very nice hotel. The Slovenian/Austrian border was the first since leaving England where someone manned the crossing - 2 Austrian soldiers. They waved me straight through, without bothering to check my papers (unlike the car in front). The likelihood of my smuggling in terrorists, Syrian refugees etc. in my Kriega tailpacks was minimal! Having used up the last of my mini chain lube, I spotted a Triumph dealer just outside Villach, and thought they might sell me more. They did, after much faffing around (although being Austria, it should probably be spelled Pfaffing around, especially after previously driving past a town called Pfafflar!) to find the price in various catalogues/computer records. I was even offered a coffee and they let me use their loo. Not bad, considering I wasn't on a Triumph. Maybe Bill Bryson was wrong (after a less than happy trip many years ago, he remarked that Austria would be nice if it were not for the Austrians). Around noon I arrived in Bad Kleinkirchheim, a town name I associate with watching Ski Sunday with my Dad when I was a kid. I reckoned it was strudel o'clock, so parked up in front of a bakery and ordered an apfelstrudel and cappuccino. Tasty filling - still trying to pin down the spice blend, more than just cinnamon & lemon, I'm sure. Sat at the next table was an Austrian straight from central casting: old guy in lederhosen, green wool cloth waistcoat and Tyrolean hat (no feather but an edelweiss pin). Tourist board employee or Englishman trying too hard to fit in? Next Brownie point for Austria was the Nockalmstrasse - a toll road through the mountains designed to be fun to ride. 52 individually number bends, perfect tarmac, helpful camber to allow for a relaxed ride. Meadows with wild flowers including lupins, grazing cows (only 1 actually stood in the road), all very pleasant. OK it was €10.50, but more fun than €10.50 worth of Italian motorway riding. After stopping at a supermarket for an iced coffee drink and punnet of blueberries (more vitamin karma), I filled up with fuel. Another pleasant surprise - price per litre cheaper than Luxembourg! Finally, I headed towards the Grossglocknerhochlapinestrasse, and my hotel in Heiligenblut. I will not write off the Austrian inkeeping profession after all. Today's dirndl clad blonde asked me to complete my address on the check in form which already had my Name printed, and gave me the key to my room, which has a balcony with a splendid mountain view. While I could happily have sat staring at the view, I fancied a relaxing swim. Once again, my lack of German frustrated me (all the info in the folder or on notices in the room is in German alone). I checked with the receptionist that my understanding was correct (that the apricot coloured towels in the wardrobe are for use in the swimming pool and spa and should be left down there). Lovely indoor pool, with huge windows looking out onto a view almost as good as that from my balcony. 50 lazy breaststroke lengths (the odd numbered ones with views of darting swifts, housemartins and the mountains, even numbered ones with just the stone carving of alpine activities on the wall). Swim was followed by sauna (again, spotlessly clean with a bizarre array of alternative showers). Only on leaving did I spot the sign saying that swimsuits were not allowed in the sauna! Dinner was spinach and cheese dumplings, another bland Austrian beer (the Austrians should leave brewing to the Germans if you ask me) and ice cream (not up to Maniago standards), with, you've guesed, more mountain views!