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350TSS · 23-05-2021, 08:15 AM

Got a number of jobs done today, as is usual when I put a bike back together I had to do a number of jobs more than once. The carbs went together OK except that I could not get the throttle cable to engage in the slides. Unlike Amals, where the cable goes through the centre of the spring and the slide has an offset hole big enough to allow the nipple to pass through and then, once located, the cable slides into a slot, the Dellortos method has the spring offset from the centre and angled so its travel is not parallel with the slide movement and the cable must sit outside the spring which then forces the nipple to be engaged with the slide. Weird but effective.
Next, I fitted the carbs and really struggled to get the air filter box in place only to realise that the air filter is bolted on first before the carburettors are pushed onto their stubs. Interestingly the air entry hole to the air filter box (measured in cross-sectional area) is smaller than the combined size of the inlet tracts.
I put the exhausts on and torqued up the back wheel which then appeared to be too difficult to freely rotate, so exhausts off again and investigate, the sprocket carrier turned freely, the wheel bearings were free - no missing spacers no witness marks on any moving parts so I put the wheel back in.
The same issue, the rear wheel would spin maybe half a turn and seemed to be tighter, then looser, then tighter. I must have had it apart 4 times with no obvious place where it was rubbing.
The bike is on its centre stand and the front wheel in one of those chock thingies, which raise the front wheel about 25mm. The rear tyre was actually just grazing the bench not enough to be really stiff or make a noise but enough to give the impression there was a tightness in the bearings or the assembly somewhere. My embarrassment was quickly forgotten as I obviously did not have what I thought was a problem.
I turned up a little collar to make the back brake adjustment work and to extract the maximum life out of the brake shoes

When I came to fit the clutch cable I found perhaps the worst design feature so far.

The clutch cable adjuster is a lug cast into one half of the crankcase right on the centre split line, the adjuster is threaded m7 x 1, the nut is 8mm size and the locknut is 10mm. There is no room to put any spanner on it and because it is so far in you can only get one fingertip on it. I tried gaffer taping the cable to the adjuster and spinning the cable but I could not get the thread to start. After an hour I decided that I would have to get an M7 tap and clear the thread although I will need to make some sort of extension to the tap to be able to turn it.
Jobs left to do:
fit front brake cable, throttle cables to twistgrip and clutch cable, probably a bit of buggering around with routing etc
fit new front brake and clutch levers
shorten handlebars
fit left-hand switch assembly and wire it up
fit petrol tank and make fuel pipes to carbs
buy and fit a new rear number plate
front to back bolt tightening check
err thats it.

23-05-2021, 08:15 AM	#93
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	Got a number of jobs done today, as is usual when I put a bike back together I had to do a number of jobs more than once. The carbs went together OK except that I could not get the throttle cable to engage in the slides. Unlike Amals, where the cable goes through the centre of the spring and the slide has an offset hole big enough to allow the nipple to pass through and then, once located, the cable slides into a slot, the Dellortos method has the spring offset from the centre and angled so its travel is not parallel with the slide movement and the cable must sit outside the spring which then forces the nipple to be engaged with the slide. Weird but effective. Next, I fitted the carbs and really struggled to get the air filter box in place only to realise that the air filter is bolted on first before the carburettors are pushed onto their stubs. Interestingly the air entry hole to the air filter box (measured in cross-sectional area) is smaller than the combined size of the inlet tracts. I put the exhausts on and torqued up the back wheel which then appeared to be too difficult to freely rotate, so exhausts off again and investigate, the sprocket carrier turned freely, the wheel bearings were free - no missing spacers no witness marks on any moving parts so I put the wheel back in. The same issue, the rear wheel would spin maybe half a turn and seemed to be tighter, then looser, then tighter. I must have had it apart 4 times with no obvious place where it was rubbing. The bike is on its centre stand and the front wheel in one of those chock thingies, which raise the front wheel about 25mm. The rear tyre was actually just grazing the bench not enough to be really stiff or make a noise but enough to give the impression there was a tightness in the bearings or the assembly somewhere. My embarrassment was quickly forgotten as I obviously did not have what I thought was a problem. I turned up a little collar to make the back brake adjustment work and to extract the maximum life out of the brake shoes When I came to fit the clutch cable I found perhaps the worst design feature so far. The clutch cable adjuster is a lug cast into one half of the crankcase right on the centre split line, the adjuster is threaded m7 x 1, the nut is 8mm size and the locknut is 10mm. There is no room to put any spanner on it and because it is so far in you can only get one fingertip on it. I tried gaffer taping the cable to the adjuster and spinning the cable but I could not get the thread to start. After an hour I decided that I would have to get an M7 tap and clear the thread although I will need to make some sort of extension to the tap to be able to turn it. Jobs left to do: fit front brake cable, throttle cables to twistgrip and clutch cable, probably a bit of buggering around with routing etc fit new front brake and clutch levers shorten handlebars fit left-hand switch assembly and wire it up fit petrol tank and make fuel pipes to carbs buy and fit a new rear number plate front to back bolt tightening check err thats it. Last edited by 350TSS; 23-05-2021 at 08:21 AM..