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350TSS · 12-02-2021, 05:47 PM

In about 4 x 2 hour stints I managed a bit more progress this week (extremely cold and 2 x 2kw fan heaters are overwhelmed)
The strip down continues with a minor setback in that a carburettor to air filter rubber got torn, fortunately they are still available but £25 each. I originally intended to strip the front forks down first as the fork tubes need to be sent away for re-chroming/regrinding (c£145 for the pair) but I was lacking some eyebolts to secure the rear of the bike down so I just got on with the back end first.

The stainless bolts arrived in dribs and drabs and I spent some time getting them to the right length.
If you buy the bolts to the measured length of the old bolt it arrives with 25mm threaded and for example in a rear shock mounting bolt the threaded part then extends inside the inner frame drilled mounting plate and into the bushing in the shock eye which I do not like. I try to buy the bolts such that the unthreaded shank is what bears on the shock bushing and on both sides of the frame mounting point and the tightening is taken up by a plain and a spring washer with the thread just protruding through a nylock nut. It is not always possible, but with stainless bolts at least you do not have to worry about loss of plating where such bolts are shortened. It does take some time to shorten
24 or so bolts but it just feels the right thing to do.

I also managed to machine up an aluminium rear wheel spacer to take the place of the rusty boat anchor that sat between the SA and the brake plate.

The plain unfinished aluminium on the engine castings is quite heavily pitted so will need quite a bit of rubbing down to achieve a surface finish that will be capable of being buffed and polished. I decided that I needed an engine stand so I could do all of this with the engine out without having to chase it round the bench. I knocked this up out of an old bed frame and an old bit of some gym equipment.

pnc bank in my area

Finally I got 2 coats of etch primer on all the anciliary hardware that I had previously treated with phosphoric acid. In the extreme cold of the garage it took ages to dry but at least they will not flash rust.

I am going to have a go at home nickel plating those parts like the rear wheel adjusters, ends of the front and rear wheel spindles. I have been following this NZealander on youtube doing a restoration of a Land Rover and he makes it look dead easy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-PtnwtOR24

Next jobs are swinging arm out, engine out and forks stripped off the frame and the stripped down so the legs can go for re-chroming

12-02-2021, 05:47 PM	#18
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,421	In about 4 x 2 hour stints I managed a bit more progress this week (extremely cold and 2 x 2kw fan heaters are overwhelmed) The strip down continues with a minor setback in that a carburettor to air filter rubber got torn, fortunately they are still available but £25 each. I originally intended to strip the front forks down first as the fork tubes need to be sent away for re-chroming/regrinding (c£145 for the pair) but I was lacking some eyebolts to secure the rear of the bike down so I just got on with the back end first. The stainless bolts arrived in dribs and drabs and I spent some time getting them to the right length. If you buy the bolts to the measured length of the old bolt it arrives with 25mm threaded and for example in a rear shock mounting bolt the threaded part then extends inside the inner frame drilled mounting plate and into the bushing in the shock eye which I do not like. I try to buy the bolts such that the unthreaded shank is what bears on the shock bushing and on both sides of the frame mounting point and the tightening is taken up by a plain and a spring washer with the thread just protruding through a nylock nut. It is not always possible, but with stainless bolts at least you do not have to worry about loss of plating where such bolts are shortened. It does take some time to shorten 24 or so bolts but it just feels the right thing to do. I also managed to machine up an aluminium rear wheel spacer to take the place of the rusty boat anchor that sat between the SA and the brake plate. The plain unfinished aluminium on the engine castings is quite heavily pitted so will need quite a bit of rubbing down to achieve a surface finish that will be capable of being buffed and polished. I decided that I needed an engine stand so I could do all of this with the engine out without having to chase it round the bench. I knocked this up out of an old bed frame and an old bit of some gym equipment. pnc bank in my area Finally I got 2 coats of etch primer on all the anciliary hardware that I had previously treated with phosphoric acid. In the extreme cold of the garage it took ages to dry but at least they will not flash rust. I am going to have a go at home nickel plating those parts like the rear wheel adjusters, ends of the front and rear wheel spindles. I have been following this NZealander on youtube doing a restoration of a Land Rover and he makes it look dead easy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-PtnwtOR24 Next jobs are swinging arm out, engine out and forks stripped off the frame and the stripped down so the legs can go for re-chroming Last edited by 350TSS; 12-02-2021 at 05:54 PM..