[350TSS]

A quick update - some good news and some less so.
Wiring is continuing but slowly, the connection box behind the instrument panel got buttoned up and I moved to tidying-up the wiring behind the headstock, replacing all the runs around the headstock with thinner gauge wire.

A bit late now but I spent ages creating a spreadsheet so I could record all the circuits and their wire colours, to and from each connection. As most will know the wire colours on the Ducati wiring diagram bear only a passing resemblance to the actual loom, particularly when the loom joins switches etc. I have made the problem worse by using an aftermarket instrument panel with 14 different coloured wires coming from it and because I was not able to find wires with multiple colours (red with green trace or blue with white trace etc) I have compounded the issue.

About 15 wires that leave the MU unit need to be connected to wires that go to the tail light, the brake light switches, the instrument panel, the neutral switch etc. and I struggled to find a way to do it that was a) not absorbing lots of real estate that I do not have and b) so that it looked neat.
Two wires have multiple connections and it is really these that have caused me to go down a connection box route as it is/would be very difficult to make them neat and not excessively space absorbing.

In most cases, it is a case of the wire leaving the MU unit joining a wire that goes fore and aft of the unit and I spent ages on the internet trying to find connection boxes that are small enough and neat enough to work. Having no luck there I decided to make my own so I ordered a range of suitably sized ABS enclosures (not here yet) and robbed the brass pins from three-pin plugs to convert to connection blocks. These will all have to be insulated from each other within the boxes as they will all be on the live side of the circuits. I can see the way forward but there is a lot of work to make it all fit in.

The bad news is that my headlamp shell clashes with the connection box behind the instrument panel and although I considered cutting another flat on the shell to provide clearance if I do so, the lens will not fit inside the headlamp shell. I have ordered an LED headlamp which has a much slimmer profile (45mm) than the standard lens, the downsides of this are: a) that it is only available in 7" and my shell and the hole cut in the front of the flyscreen are for an 8" headlamp and b) it is black and ugly.
The first is solvable one way or another, the second I am stuck with.

Having re-considered the load (wind pressure) that the flyscreen may impose on the top mounts (the instrument panel surround) I have decided I need to brace the instrument surround. I have a plan here and the parts are on order.

The final downside issue is that the Fastbikegear hall effect ignition system I bought 2 years ago came with a CD which I think contains the manual and the wiring diagram and in particular how to interconnect with the Ignitech ignition module. Since buying the kit I have had to replace all the computers in the house as they have expired (one spectacularly when the power supply exploded) none of the replacements contains a CD drive, so I have not the first clue how to wire the ignition triggers to the Ignitech unit, the coils or the interface with the rev counter.

Accidentally I found out that the starter motor works, I dropped a 10 mm socket and it shorted out the solenoid connections and the engine cranked over about 5 turns before I could displace it.