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Where can I find manuals online?
Manuals can be found here:

What is the correct way to fit cambelts?
What is the correct way to fit cambelts?
I have heard the Allen key method discussed for checking tension, how is this done?
I have used the 45deg twist method but would like to know if there is a a different method to do a double check?
What is the preferred method for turning the engine over to align the timing marks ?

A. Detailed information on cam belt adjustment can be found at :
A. Turning over the engine.
Put the bike on a paddock stand or axle stands with the rear wheel off the ground. Remove the spark plugs. place it in gear and turn the wheel by hand.

You can also turn over the engine with an 8mm bolt and nut. Screw the nut about 10mm down the bolt, screw the bolt into the end of the crankshaft ( the nut stops the bolt going in too far) and then turn it with a 13mm socket.

How should I clean my chain and how often?
Do you also have any recommended lubricants?
Clean with either parafin or diesel (making sure not to coat the tyres!!) and allow to dry. You may need to wipe it over with a suitable cloth to shift diesel but parafin should dry ok. Do not use a wire brush as this may damage the 'O' rings. Lubrication is best done every 200-300 miles or more frequent depending on riding conditions e.g. salt, grit. It is also advisable to lubricate the chain when the chain is hot - after a ride! There are a number of lubricants on the market. Some of those used and recommended by our members include:
Profi Dry Lube from Heine Gericke
Castrol Chain Wax
Finish Line Krytek
You may also want to consider one of the automatic chain oliers made by Scott Oiler or Motrax. Scott Oiler are about to launch a new oiler for bikes with limited space.

I am thinking of changing the dry clutch plates. Can anybody offer me advice please?
A. Remove the cover.
Remove the six spring retaining bolts (remember to undo each bolt a few turns at a time then move on to the next so they come off evenly).
Remove the pressure plate with the bearing.
Remove the plates, noting the order in which they came off.
Reassembly is the reverse. You should be able to do all this with a set of allen keys.

A. While doing above, get a can of Brake Cleaner and clean all the components. Try not to get on the plates themselves. Check the release bearing in the driven plate is free to rotate, if not it is cheap and it's only a heat fit. Place the plate in boiling water for a few minutes and then drift/tap it out. Fitting is the same: boil the plate, put bearing in fridge for a few hours then tap it in. Take out the pushrod too, and clean with wire wool and WD40. Replace the 2 o-rings. Check the clutch slave cylinder for leaks. They do leak! I think three allen bolts will see this off, but DO NOT press the clutch lever until it's back in place!! Replace the 6 clutch springs a little at a time like removal and don't forget a little Thread Lock on the threads. A simple task but to make it easier get a Haynes Manual. As for the torque settings. There is nothing listed in Haynes so hand tight and a little more should do it. If you need the part number of the bearing, contact Spacemonkey. They can be bought from Bearing Services - they are special order and take about a week. You should also check the "seal" over the clutch piston - it's not a good design but very cheap - about £2.

A. Clutch spring screws - I chose to lock them up. They all go fully home unlike old British bikes where you have to adjust them to make the outer plate lift evenly. I would also put a blob of grease on the little needle roller that lives inside the shaft and supports the cluch pushrod - it makes a real mess if it breaks up.

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